In Pagudpud, life's a beach

Earth...

Sea...

Sky...

and a hammock...

What more could you ask for?

Life's a beach.

_____

Pagudpud Beach, Ilocos Norte, Philippines

Pardon the poor quality of my photos but they were taken long before i owned a digital camera.  Holy Week of 2001, Grace invited me and Monet to her hometown in Billoca, Ilocos Norte.  I was there same time the previous year for my first ever Northern exposure and we visited the usual tourist spots in Vigan, Batac, Laoag and Currimao.  This time we went to the same places (for the sake of Monet who was visiting for the first time) and we also checked out Pagudpud Beach.

April 2001 with Gracie and Monet

Pagudpud is a coastal resort town on the northernmost tip of Luzon.  Its crystal-blue waters and white sand beaches make it a haven for tourists, also earning it the title "Boracay of the North".

I can still remember that trip.  We took a bus from Billoca to Laoag, rode a tricycle to the bus terminal then boarded an overloaded non-airconditioned bus to Pagudpud.  What I also cannot forget about that ride was the bus driver who knew all his passengers (except us) and dropped off each and everyone of them right in front of their doorsteps, at times helping them unload their big boxes and sacks of rice.  Obviously, these people went to the big city to get their basic supplies.  As we went around the quiet streets of that small town, i was instantly taken by its quaintness.  Though it's a place i've never been before, i felt safe and happy.  I was charmed!

We unboarded the bus last and Mr. Driver dropped us off the entrance of the resorts strip.  We rented a cheap room that was part of a 3-bedroom bungalow after we were snobbed at Saud Beach Resort.  We found out later that most of the tourists flock to Saud so it wasn't surprising that when we stepped in there with our flipflops and heavy backpacks, nobody seemed to care. Hmp!

Other than that not-so-pleasant encounter with the Saud front desk, we had a wonderful time.  I remember waking up early to collect shells and wait for sunrise... one of the best mornings i've had in my life!  Grace, Monet and I had fun exploring the beach, taking pictures, climbing hills, eating at carinderias.  The best part was taking a bath from a 'poso' (a manual pump used to get water from underneath the ground), the three of us alternating with the handle so the other two can rinse. So much fun!

After our overnight stay we headed back to Laoag, had brunch at Jollibee and took a bus headed not to Grace's home but to Vigan, Ilocos Sur.  But that's another story. :)

_____

I was fortunate to go back to Pagudpud in 2004 as part of our Ilocos trip with my college classmates Eder and Laya.  This time i had a brand-new digital camera so the pictures were better.  Laya, already permanently residing in the US, was vacationing and together with his dad, our cheerful and tireless driver, we spent 4 days and 3 nights of fun and memorable times together.

May 2004 with Eder and Laya

We checked in at Saud Beach Resort and I felt like Julia Roberts in the Pretty Woman movie where she shopped at the same expensive boutique that snobbed her the first time she went there. Ha! After i told them about my experience with Grace and Monet, Laya decided we should stay there and find out what's so special about it.  Nothing much really, except for the airconditioned rooms, decent shower, resort hammocks and the neatly-combed beachfront.  Other than that "special amenities", the rest of Pagudpud's beauty are naturally available for everyone to enjoy.

My fondest memory of that trip, other than our failed attempts to ride the boogie board, was that special night i spent with Eder and Laya at the beachfront under the full moon where we talked about our fun college days (we first met in UP in 1991) to our present lives, careers and relationships.  Something about that conversation enlightened me which eventually led to a major decision that changed my life.

Compared to Boracay, Pagudpud still has a lot to improve.  But honestly, I hope it stays that way - quiet, peaceful, subdued, muted, raw and mysterious.  You arrive tired, stressed and disorganized and go home happy, energized and feeling like a totally different person in a nice kind of way.


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